What Is Silk Twill? A Guide to the Fabric Behind a Luxury Silk Scarf
Soft yet structured, luminous without being overly shiny, and beautifully fluid when worn, silk twill has long been associated with luxury scarves and accessories.
But what exactly is silk twill — and what makes it so special?
The answer lies in the combination of two things: the fibre and the weave.
Silk describes the natural fibre used to create the fabric, while twill describes the way those fibres are woven together. Together, they create a fabric with a distinctive balance of softness, structure, lustre and drape.
So what actually is silk twill?
Silk twill is made from silk fibres woven in a twill construction. Look closely at the surface and you may notice incredibly fine diagonal lines running through the fabric. This subtle texture is created by the way the threads pass over and under one another during weaving. The twill structure gives the fabric more body than many lighter, more fluid silks while retaining the softness and movement for which silk is known. The result is a fabric that feels beautifully luxurious while still strong, and holds shape.
What does 100% silk mean?
Silk is the fibre. Twill is the weave. So 100% silk twill means the fabric has been woven entirely from silk fibres using a twill construction. This is very different from fabrics described as silky, silk-feel or satin-like, which may be made from polyester or other synthetic fibres. Genuine silk has its own distinctive qualities - particularly its softness, natural lustre, lightness and beautiful drape.
Why does silk twill hold its shape?
One of the most beautiful characteristics of silk twill is its ability to be both fluid and structured. Silk itself is naturally soft and supple, while the twill weave gives the fabric additional body and stability. This makes it particularly suited to scarves.
Fold silk twill into a triangle and it creates a beautifully defined shape. Roll it into a narrow band and it retains the fold. Tie it into a knot and the fabric has enough body to give the knot presence. Yet it remains soft enough to drape naturally around the body.
It is this balance between softness and structure that makes silk twill so versatile.
The natural lustre of silk
Silk is renowned for its lustre, but lustre shouldn't be confused with high shine.
Silk fibres interact with light in a way that gives the fabric a subtle luminosity. Rather than appearing uniformly glossy, the surface changes as the fabric moves and catches the light.
Silk twill tends to have a particularly refined appearance, a soft understated glow, rather than highly reflective fabrics such as satin.
This lustre also gives colours beautiful depth and dimension.
How does silk twill drape?
In textiles, drape describes the way a fabric falls, hangs and moves. Silk twill sits beautifully between a very fluid fabric and a highly structured one. It has enough weight and body to create shape, while remaining soft enough to fall naturally.
For a scarf, this is an important balance. The fabric can fall softly around the neck or shoulders while maintaining definition through folds and knots.
What does momme mean?
When looking at quality silk, you will often see the word momme, abbreviated to mm or mg.
Momme is a traditional measurement used to describe the weight of silk fabric. Despite the abbreviation, it does not mean millimetres. Generally, a higher momme indicates a denser, more substantial silk. However, higher isn't necessarily better, the ideal weight depends on how the silk will be used.
A delicate garment may require very lightweight silk, while a scarf benefits from enough weight to create structure without sacrificing movement.
At Artifact, we use a luxurious 18 momme silk twill.
We choose this weight because it gives our scarves a luxurious, substantial feel while retaining the softness and fluidity that makes silk so beautiful to wear. It has enough body to hold folds and knots while remaining light and comfortable around the neck. It also caries enough weight to be strong so you can wear your scarf in many different ways without damaging it.
Silk twill vs silk satin
Silk twill and silk satin are often confused, but the main difference is the weave.
Both can be made from 100% silk.
Silk satin has a very smooth surface with a more pronounced shine. It tends to feel sleek, fluid and slippery and is often used for dresses, blouses, lingerie and sleepwear.
Silk twill has a subtle diagonal structure, more body and a softer lustre.
Neither is better, they simply behave differently.F
or a classic square scarf, silk twill offers an especially beautiful combination of softness, structure and drape.
Why is silk twill used for luxury scarves?
There isn't one single reason. It is the combination of qualities that makes silk twill so beautifully suited to scarves.
It is soft but not limp.
Structured but not stiff.
Luminous without being overly shiny.
It has enough body to hold a fold and enough fluidity to drape naturally.
A square of silk twill can lie beautifully flat one moment and transform completely through folding, knotting and draping the next. Perhaps that's what makes the fabric so enduring.
It doesn't simply look beautiful.
It behaves beautifully.
At Artifact, we choose 100% 18 momme silk twill for our scarves because it gives us exactly the balance we look for: luxurious weight, beautiful movement, subtle lustre and effortless wearability.
